Thursday, October 7, 2010

Wood Starting From Scratch: Remodeling & New Construction Tips

Starting From Scratch

Remodeling & New Construction Tips

Undoubtedly, the best way to protect exterior wood structures and prevent potential problems is to start the project from scratch. While not always an option with older homes and decks, new construction techniques and thorough surface preparation can virtually eliminate coating failure and provide nearly maintenance-free protection for years. This Technical Bulletin addresses issues pertaining to remodeling and new construction in order to provide a foundation for methodical and effective project management. As a rule of thumb, the longevity of any coating is a direct result of the time and quality invested in project preparation and execution. Consider these important issues when approaching your next remodeling or construction projects. Taking the time now to ensure the best results will certainly reward your efforts in the coming years.
Starting Out
  • Hire professionals with good references. Insist on quality installations and quality products.
  • Siding selection is important. You get the most value from buying ‘clear-all heart-vertical grain siding.’ This wood is usually hung smooth side out, and it will accept solid color stains and paints well. The next grade is ‘Aye or better’ which may contain one to two tight knots and could contain up to 10-15% flat-grained siding. Rustic grades are generally graded for the rough side of the lumber. This siding could contain a few tight knots, is generally hung rough side out, and contains flat-grain lumber.
  • Wood types available are:

    • redwood
    • western red cedar
    • cypress
    • eastern white cedar
    • incense cedar
    • pine
    • mahogany and other imported hardwood species.
  • Wood in today’s marketplace may be second- and third-growth lumber. It is fast grown, may have knots and does not have the rot resistance of virgin-growth lumber.
  • Siding styles or patterns are important. Among the more popular siding styles are bevel cut, shiplap, tongue and groove, and channel rustic. And, of course, there are many styles of shingles available.
  • The open end-grain of siding is the main entrance point for water intrusion. This is the path tree cells use to transport water and nutrients and is most often the path for water transport which will cause problems for paints and stains. It is important to seal the ends of all boards.
Installation
After choosing the siding, the next consideration is hanging it.
  • First, the wood delivered to the site must be dry. Store the wood indoors if possible or store it off the ground on blocks. Protect the wood from rain with a protective, loose cover so the wood can breathe. Allow the wood to acclimate to the site conditions, i.e., temperature and humidity. Example: Tongue-and-groove (T&G) siding should not be hung with a moisture content of 20% or higher. Wet wood will shrink, and with T&G siding, this creates potential sites for water to enter the V-channel between two adjacent boards and cause problems. It is highly recommended to pre-prime the tongue-and-groove. To reduce the risk of rusting, use stainless steel nails.
  • Plywood siding delivered to the job site must also be dry. While the siding is still stacked on the ground, take the time to prime the edges to protect the wood from swelling by water absorption. The same is true of hardboard siding. To reduce water infiltration, re-prime all cut edges before installation.
  • Trim boards also come in vertical-grain, flat-grain and finger-jointed versions. Pine trim boards may have a smooth, resinous pitch on the surface due to the planing operation or inadequate kiln drying. Lightly scratch-sand new trim boards to obtain a better bite for the primer or stain.
  • Caulk all joints with a quality 100% acrylic compound, a paintable, siliconized acrylic blend, or where required to fill larger joints, use a high-elongation, polyurethane sealant.
  • Replace loose or missing caulking. Don’t overlook the roof-siding joint. Water running down the roof will find its way into the adjacent dormer siding. This is one area often plagued by peeling paint and mildew.
  • Use flashing over all windows and doors. Exterior T1-11 plywood and hardboard panels require a special flashing between the panels.
  • Provide good ventilation in all crawl and attic spaces as well as the living spaces. Interior moisture can create paint failures if it reaches the sheathing and siding. Dehumidify humid basements. Maintain the interior humidity levels at 40-45% or lower.
Decks and Outdoor Furniture
  • Horizontal surfaces require more maintenance than vertical surfaces.
  • Construction: When possible, Cabot recommends drying the wood thoroughly and staining all six sides prior to assembly.
  • Pressure-treated wood should season no more than three weeks prior to staining. This wood tends to be more moisture sensitive than other species and should be stained sooner.
  • Properly-built decks should be 18 inches off the ground or higher. Decks built too close to the ground can fail prematurely. Good air circulation is required.
  • Wood types used in decking include redwood, red cedar, Alaskan yellow cedar, Port Orford cedar, treated pine, fir, and recently, mahogany.
  • The open end-grain of railing systems, furniture legs and/or other structures which come in contact with the ground must be saturated with stain. This is a principal point of water infiltration.
Note: Careful attention to all the above-listed construction practices will provide a more stable substrate to eventually be stained or painted. These steps are essential in providing a longer-lasting coating on your home or deck.

Wood Protecting: Winter Foes…Springtime Woes

Marcial Larrauri.
During the winter months, many sections of the United States and Canada undergo serious climate and atmospheric disturbances. People living along the Atlantic and Pacific coasts deal with severe snow and rain, which is often accompanied by high winds, sub-zero temperatures and coastal flooding. These seasonal conditions, or Winter Foes, can cause exterior coating problems. Most of us tend to stay indoors and not think about what has or what may be occurring around the outside of our homes. As spring approaches, it is time to get outdoors and examine our properties to survey the damage that the winter has inflicted. These problems become our Springtime Woes. Some of the most widespread problems and their solutions are addressed below.
The Problems
Why would your paint or solid color stain peel? The usual reason for peeling is excessive moisture or free-running water coursing through the wood. Excessive moisture causes wood to swell, and with this swelling, the adhesion of the paint or solid color stain is compromised. (Blistering and peeling most often occur on the south and west walls where the sun accelerates the process.) The moisture can come from several areas around the home – heavy snow on the roof which melts and forms ice dams at the eaves; wind-driven snow that packs against the siding and melts; wind-driven rain that can find its way through the tiniest openings; flooded basements that can saturate the home with excessive moisture; lack of flashing on windows and doors and lack of caulking compound at joints; and high humidity within the interior of the home without adequate interior ventilation.
Did your deck develop a peeling problem during the winter? Peeling deck stain or paint is also caused by excessive moisture that infiltrates the deck boards through cracks or saw-cut ends. Ice and snow that sit on the deck for long periods of time will eventually melt and saturate the wood. If the deck is built too close to the soil, ground water will find its way into the structure. Pool and furniture covers also trap water underneath them, limiting air circulation and preventing the wood from properly drying. Trapped moisture and poor air circulation can cause serious peeling problems, not to mention mildew and algae growths. Did you notice a red-brown discoloration on your siding this spring? This problem may be tannin or extractive bleeding. Tannin or tannic acid is a naturally occurring, water-soluble resin produced by the heartwood of red species of trees, such as red cedar and redwood. Tannin bleed is not a paint or stain failure. It will not harm the paint or stain, but it may accompany peeling problems as both conditions are caused by excessive moisture in the wood. You might notice tannin streaking at the butt ends of your lap siding because the cut ends, or butts, were not protected. Tannin solutions could also be running out from behind the wood or at the nails. These streaking patterns you see are also caused by high concentrations of moisture that get behind the siding. Tannin bleed can also appear as an overall diffused pattern on your wood. This diffused pattern may be the result of wet snow that packs against the house, or fog or dew settling on the siding and entering the wood because the paint or stain is too thin and porous.
The Cause
How can you avoid these problems in the future? Certain steps should be taken to eliminate moisture. If you need to, hire a reputable contractor to determine how the moisture infiltrates the wood. You may also be able to do an examination on your own. Start by checking the flashing and caulking around doors and windows, and try to maintain the interior humidity of your home at approximately 40%. Interior moisture can travel through the smallest openings in the walls and condense on the cold sheathing and siding. This form of moisture is not usually noticed until the warmer weather arrives, when it is too late and the damage has been done. During the winter months, if possible, remove the snow from the roof or install heating wires at the eaves to melt the ice before water can back up under the roof shingles. You should also be sure your attic is adequately insulated to prevent heat from escaping from your living quarters. A tremendous amount of heat can be lost if proper insulation isn’t used, and this heat will melt the snow on the roof. Try to keep your attic space cold with good air circulation. Attic vents should provide one square foot of unobstructed opening for each 150 square feet of floor space. For your deck, try to remove the snow and ice as it accumulates. Place your pool and furniture covers in such a way that water can evaporate and not get trapped on your deck surface. If you are building a new deck, consider staining all sides of the boards, especially the end grain, as this will help prevent the penetration of moisture.
The Solution
How can you correct your coating problem? Determine the extent of the problem by performing tape pull tests in both peeling and “good” areas with transparent tape. Simply press the tape against dry siding (a false-positive test will result with wet wood) with thumb pressure and rip it off. If any paint or stain is removed with the tape, the adhesion in those areas is poor and must be corrected. The next step is to prepare the affected areas by scraping, power washing, or spot sanding, feathering to eliminate sharp edges where existing paint meets raw wood. (Also refer to “Surface Preparation.”) Remove any sanding dust and allow the siding to dry thoroughly if power washing was employed. Your deck can be handled in the same manner. For the best results, sand the stain buildup back to bare wood. Power washing may be used to lift peeling stain. Clean the deck with Cabot Problem-Solver® Cleaner, then rinse the deck. (Also refer to “Horizontal Hassles.”) When the deck has been allowed to dry adequately, a penetrating stain will yield the best results; and when properly applied, the coating will breathe and allow the moisture to escape before any damage can occur. These stains weather naturally, which means less labor when it comes time to rejuvenate the deck in two to four years.
How do you remove tannin bleed? Tannin stains can be removed easily with a garden hose if removal is attempted within a relatively short period of time. If the stains tend to be more stubborn, use Cabot Problem-Solver® Brightener diluted according to the label directions. Leave solution on the surface for 10-15 minutes, then rinse with clear water. Tannin bleed can be controlled by preventing excessive moisture from infiltrating the wood siding. The same conditions mentioned above that cause peeling problems also pertain to tannin bleed – ice dams, high interior moisture, etc. (For additional information refer to “Extractive Bleeding.”) In nearly all cases, moisture is found to be responsible for exterior coating problems. To better understand and control the effects of moisture, refer to “Controlling Moisture.” For accurate and complete information regarding your specific project, call 1-800-US-STAIN. Technical Service Consultants are available to provide answers to all of your technical questions, and they can provide advice for every exterior coating project.

Wood Protecting: Protecting Exterior Woods from Mold and Mildew.

Wood Protecting




Protecting Exterior Woods from Mold and Mildew

Obviously you don't want fungus and micro-organisms feasting on your wood finishing projects. Mildew will blacken affected areas and over time may damage your wood. This section covers mold and mildew prevention and repair.

Establish a zero tolerance policy for moisture.

Follow these tips to keep moisture out.

Minimize Moisture

For mold and mildew no meal is complete without a beverage. Take away their water and these two wood threats will move on to greener pastures. Make a thorough survey of possible moisture sources and stop mold and mildew before they start.



Move your plants back from your deck

If your plants are hanging over your deck, you are asking for trouble from mold and mildew. Plant your shrubs and foliage where they cannot drip on woodwork.

Re-route water away from your home

Make sure your roof has an effective gutter system and your surrounding property had sufficient drainage. Shovel snow off flat surfaces including roofs and decks, and schedule periodic checks on the flashing and caulking around doors and windows.

Clean your surfaces every spring and every fall

Establish a bi-annual cleaning schedule and don't forget to wash your surfaces with Cabot Problem-Solver® Cleaner. Cabot Problem-Solver® Cleaner is specially formulated to remove stains from mold and mildew as well as general surface dirt and contamination.Wholesale Stain

Wood Protecting: Keep your wood looking its best year after year.

Wood Protecting

Handyman vs. The Elements
Everyone knows winter can wreak havoc on exteriors, and some of the worst problems don't show themselves till spring. Here are some post-thaw cures and some preventive maintenance suggestions that'll keep your exterior wood surfaces looking their best year after year.

Establish a zero tolerance policy for moisture.

  • Follow these tips to keep moisture out.
  • Check your flashing and caulking around doors and windows.
  • Monitor interior humidity and keep it at 40%.
  • Don't let snow pile up on your roof over the winter. Shovel it off and consider installing heat wires in the eaves.
  • Keep you attic insulated to keep heat in living areas, but keep the attic itself, cool and well ventilated.
  • Remove ice as it accumulates on your deck.
  • Place furniture covers so they can't trap damaging moisture.

The Problem: Peeling Solid Color Stain

When moisture gets into your wood, it can compromise your stain job, causing blistering and peeling-particularly on the south and west walls where the sun accelerates the damage. Trapped moisture and poor air circulation can also cause serious peeling problems, not to mention mildew and algae growths.

The Problem: Brown Discoloration

Post-winter discoloration is usually caused by tannin bleeding, also known as extractive bleeding. Tannin bleed is not a stain failure but may accompany peeling problems as both conditions are caused by moisture in the wood.

Repairs

Perform a tape test. See just how bad the situation is by pressing transparent tape against the wood. If stain comes off, you've got an adhesion problem.

Prep the surface and reapply. Time to break out the power washer and sanding tools. Clean your deck with Cabot Problem-Solver® Cleaner (also see Horizontal Hassles). Use Cabot Problem-Solver® Brightener to remove tannin bleed, if present. Then, when the deck is all dry, apply a penetrating stain. For more information regarding your specific project, call 1-800-US-STAIN.

Volatile Organic Compounds

Volatile Organic Compounds
The United States Congress over the last several years has enacted legislation pertaining to the reduction of pollution in our environment – air, land and water. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has been given the responsibility of writing, controlling, and enforcing the various regulations. The Clean Air Acts of 1990, the latest Congressional re-authorization, require each state to comply with regulations which will reduce air pollution, especially street-level ozone, a hazardous component of smog. One way in which this can be accomplished is by reducing the Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) or solvents in AIM (Architectural & Industrial Maintenance) coatings. The EPA will issue national standards for VOC limits for all AIM products. To make a product VOC compliant, manufacturers increase the level of solids in a product and lower the amount of solvents, the actual VOC component. Solids are defined as any non-solvent part of the product and would include pigment, mildewcides, resins (oils), flattening agents, etc. The higher level of solids in these stains does not mean that the product looks different when applied. A semi-transparent stain will still allow the natural texture and grain of the wood to show through, and a solid stain is still opaque and flat in appearance. The long-term durability of the VOC product is still the same. In fact, the durability of VOC-compliant products may be enhanced due to the increase in solids. However, three aspects of these higher solid products do change – handling characteristics such as brush drag, slower drying and increased film build. Increased brush drag and slower drying time mean that these coatings will have expanded “open-time” leading to a more uniform application. An increase in film build means that more product is applied to the surface, which leads to greater hide and increased durability for one-coat applications. Cabot has been manufacturing VOC-compliant products since 1987 and has gained considerable experience in their handling and application. As part of our ongoing commitment to our customers, we are taking this opportunity to provide a better understanding of the correct application techniques for these products. It is important for the Cabot dealer and the applicator of VOC products to understand the differences in the handling and application of VOC-compliant stains and paints vs. the non-compliant stains and paints that are more familiar. Below are some hints, which when followed, will allow for increased success with the application of VOC stains.
1. One coat of VOC-compliant O.V.T.® Solid Color Oil Stain (#6500) and VOC-compliant Bleaching Oil™ (#3241) is recommended. Two coats may result in a higher sheen. For complete hiding, additional coats may be required with lighter colors. Always test a small area prior to applying a second coat. Remember, because of the higher solids in VOC-compliant products, greater brush drag and increased film build lead to increased hiding.
2. Cabot Semi-Transparent (#0300) or Semi-Solid® (#0100) stains are already produced in a VOC-compliant formula. Two coats are recommended for maximum durability on new, porous wood. Always test a small area prior to applying a second coat. One coat is recommended for redo work.
3. Do not apply Cabot VOC-compliant oil-based products over previously painted, non-porous, or sealed surfaces, including Problem-Solver Primer. The high solids content formula of VOC-compliant O.V.T. Solid Color Stains (#6500) has excellent cedar-bleed retarding properties.
4. When staining a previously stained surface which is still porous, the surface must be cleaned prior to staining. Power washing is recommended. Proper surface preparation is the key to maximum performance.
5. The surface must be thoroughly dry. After power washing, allow 3-5 days of dry weather before restaining. The moisture content of the wood should be 15% or less.
6. Because of the reduction in solvent, these VOC stains must be applied at 50°F or higher. The viscosity will increase at lower temperatures.
7. New wood that is unseasoned or appears shiny (mill-glazed) should be allowed to weather sufficiently before staining, but generally no longer than three months.
8. Cabot Problem-Solver® Primers may be applied to new, smooth (mill-glazed) lumber without waiting or seasoning, as long as the wood is dry. Topcoat Problem-Solver Primer with Cabot O.V.T. Solid Color Acrylic Stain or The Finish by Cabot.
9. A natural bristle brush is recommended for application of solvent-based products. When spraying, it is critical that backbrushing be done immediately after each section is coated to ensure proper penetration and maintain the recommended spread rates.
10. The high solids content of VOC-compliant O.V.T. Solid Color Stain (#6500) will increase the brush drag of the product and can lead to overapplication. Be sure to apply the product at the proper spread rates.
11. It is illegal for contractors and homeowners to thin VOC-compliant products. We do not recommend intermixing Semi-Transparent Stains (#0300) with the VOC-compliant O.V.T. Solid Color Oil Stain (#6500) to reduce the viscosity.

Wood Staining: Staining Siding and Fences

Wood Staining


  1. The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep
  2. Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Siding and Fences
  3. Select the right surface prep product
  4. Choose your stain color and finish
  5. Siding and Fences



The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep

Vertical surfaces, such as fences, have different exposures, different absorption rates - different needs altogether. So what works on your deck or outdoor furniture may not be right for the siding on your home. Cabot understands the unique needs of each project. That's why we offer products that are specifically designed for your siding and fence surfaces.




Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Siding and Fences

Here's everything you'll need to get it right the first time.
  • Drop cloth
  • Garden pump sprayer
  • Cabot Problem Solver Wood Cleaner
  • Deck scrub brush or Power washer
  • Sanding block
  • sanding paper and Broom
  • Garden hose
  • Gloves
  • Safety glases
  • Empty gallon can / lid (1/4 full with water for rags)
  • Brush (bristle brush)
  • Cabot Decking Stain




Select the right surface prep product

Evaluate surface condition. Are mildew stains present, or evidence of extractive bleeding? Cabot provides a full selection of surface prep products. You will have no trouble finding a product that addresses your surface's specific prep needs.
Cabot Composite Decking Stains are water-repellent stains give a mildew-resistant coating while also resisting cracking, peeling, and blistering.




Choose your stain color and finish

Cabot offers a full range of stain options including naturals, decking and solids color stains. To make your decision between colors and opacities easier, we sell 4 oz sample sized cans in our Sample Store. To be sure you'll be pleased with the final result try it first.
Naturals
Tinted finishes add sheer, nearly transparent color allowing the most wood grain and texture to show through.View natural colors
Semi-Solids
Unique semi-solid/semi-opaque finish that mostly masks the wood grain but allows texture to show through.View semi-solid colors
Solids
Solid finish adds rich, opaque color that completely hides the wood grain while allowing some texture to show through.View solid colors







Siding and Fences

Generally, the best method to apply Cabot oil-based products is a high quality, natural bristle brush, and either a high quality polyester or nylon brush for our acrylic products. However, professional sprayers may be used for the majority of our products. See Spray Gun Application for more information. Always follow product instructions to the letter and don't forget to re-stain the surface depending on anticipated weathering.

Wood Staining: How to Stain Decks

Wood Staining


  1. The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep
  2. Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Decks
  3. Step 1: Evaluate the deck surface
  4. Step 2: Selecting the right stain
  5. Step 3: Apply stain



The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep

Your wood is an investment. Protect it with premium wood beautification and preservation products from Cabot. Follow this step-by-step guide for a professional looking finish.




Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Decks

Here's everything you'll need to get it right the first time.
  • Drop cloth
  • Garden pump sprayer
  • Cabot Problem Solver Wood Cleaner
  • Deck scrub brush or Power washer
  • Sanding block
  • sanding paper and Broom
  • Garden hose
  • Gloves
  • Safety glases
  • Empty gallon can / lid (1/4 full with water for rags)
  • Brush (bristle brush)
  • Cabot Decking Stain




Step 1: Evaluate the deck surface

First inspect your deck surface for mildew, tannic bleeding, and damage (see Cleaning Up). Then choose the right Cabot surface prep products for your job.




Step 2: Selecting the right stain

Cabot offers a full range of stain options including naturals, decking and solids color stains. To make your decision between colors and opacities easier, we sell 4 oz sample sized cans in our Sample Store. To be sure you'll be pleased with the final result try it first.
Naturals
Tinted finishes add sheer, nearly transparent color allowing the most wood grain and texture to show through.View natural colors
Semi-Solids
Unique semi-solid/semi-opaque finish that mostly masks the wood grain but allows texture to show through.View semi-solid colors
Solids
Solid finish adds rich, opaque color that completely hides the wood grain while allowing some texture to show through.View solid colors







Step 3: Apply stain

Generally, the best method to apply Cabot oil-based products is a high quality, natural bristle brush, and either a high quality polyester or nylon brush for our acrylic products. However, professional sprayers may be used for the majority of our products. See Spray Gun Application for more information. Always follow product instructions to the letter and don't forget to re-stain the surface depending on anticipated weathering.