4 Best Uses for a Trim Roller

Those who are painting homes and other properties have often struggled with the dilemma of whether to use paint brushes for most of a project, or whether to rely more on paint rollers or tools like a trim roller. Full sized paint rollers cover a wide area quickly, but where the painter runs into trouble is anywhere that they encounter smaller or more specialized surfaces. Switch plates, doorknobs, trim frames, and any other protrusions from a wall or door space can make roller painting a laborious process.


With trim rollers, smaller rollers from 3 to 4 inches in length, there’s a middle ground between the ease of using a roller to broadly apply paint and a small imprint for more complex areas of a wall or surface. Trim rollers make many kinds of painting jobs easier by allowing for more various application with a single tool. That doesn’t mean those using trim rollers will never have to pick up a brush, but these smaller roller designs can be useful in cutting down on the time it takes for an overall painting project, and giving professionals or amateurs a better tool box.

Trim rollers come in especially handy in some of the situations for which they were designed. Here are some popular uses for these handy small roller tools.

Exterior Trim Frames – Painters zipping along the exterior of a building may be using a full size roller on a flat exterior wall space, but trim frames can present a challenge. When the sizes of these frames fit the size of a trim roller, this project can become a lot easier. Both rollers can neatly share the same tray, eliminating the need for going up and down a ladder to switch tools.

Interior Trim – All kinds of wooden or synthetic trim and molding can be neatly painted with trim rollers as well.

Door spaces – It can be a little hard to go over any paneled door with a regular roller. The roller width is just too long to be able to apply paint into the small, slight bevels in the panel. These spaces, along with areas around a doorknob, etc. can be more accessible with a smaller trim roller.

Electrical Boxes and Other Wall Protrusions – A painter who is making good time with a flat wall space might come to an outlet, box or other installation that projects just a few inches from the surface. It’s not impossible to do these pieces with a traditional roller, but with a trim roller, there’s less of an issue with the paint on the unused portion pooling up and causing problems. Trim rollers can be great for these kinds of temporary obstacles to smooth sailing.

House Painting: It's easy to protect your investment in quality painting tools.

House Paint - Cleaning

1. Latex Paints
2. Oil Alkyd Paints
3. Protect Your Paint Job
4. Tips to Protect the Environment

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Latex Paints

Clean-up procedures depend largely on the paint you use. Here are guidelines for cleaning up. To maximize your investment on painting tools, make sure to clean them right after use.

Latex Paints

• Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with water.
• Clean brushes, rollers and other tools with soap and water.
• After cleaning, flush spraying equipment with mineral spirits to prevent rusting. Follow manufacturer's safety recommendations when using mineral spirits.

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Oil Alkyd Paints

• Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
• Oil-based (alkyd) paint must be removed from tools with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
• Pour the cleaning material into a clean bucket and rinse brushes and rollers well.
• When done, allow the solids to settle out of the cleaner, then strain the liquid back into the original container for reuse.
• Allow the settled solids to air-dry away from children, pets or open flames, then dispose of the container in the trash.
• Brushes should be kept in their original wrapper or paper-wrapped in a manner that retains their original shape before storing.

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Protect Your Paint Job

Wait at least two weeks before washing the newly painted surface. After that, clean with a mild household detergent and a soft cloth or sponge.

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Tips to Protect the Environment

• Try to buy only the amount of paint you need so there is little to dispose of when you complete your project. If you do have leftovers, follow these guidelines:
• Save small amounts of leftover paint for future touch-ups. To keep it fresh, place a layer of plastic wrap over the mouth of the can before replacing the lid. Pound down the lid securely.
• Check with your local waste collector to see if it accepts dried latex paint. If so, place the open can in an airy spot away from children and pets. When the paint is completely dry, put it in the trash.
• Seal oil/alkyd paints in the can and store them safely away from heat sources until you can take them to an appropriate waste-disposal site, such as community paint/stain collection events where you can safely dispose of leftover paints.
• Never pour paint, stain, or any other coating down a drain, into a storm sewer or anywhere else that might contaminate the environment.

House Paint: Knowing how to paint a room is the key to a successful painting project.

House Paint - Painting

1. Getting Ready to Paint
2. Painting Order
3. Painting Techniques
4. Choosing a Primer

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Getting Ready to Paint

Preparing the room before beginning your project not only makes it easier for you to paint, it also protects your home from inadvertent splatters or spills.

• Remove draperies, pictures, mirrors, area rugs, hardware (if possible), and switch and receptacle cover plates.  
• Move all furniture to the center of the room or the room, if possible.
• Cover all furniture with drop cloths.  
• Tape off woodwork and tape down plastic drop cloths. 
• Wrap plastic around light fixtures, and use masking tape to cover any hardware you can't remove.  
• Open a window or door to ensure good ventilation.
• Clean the surface as needed. 
• Gaps between walls, ceilings, crown moldings and other interior trim can be filled with the appropriate caulk after priming the surface.

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Painting Order

It may seem obvious, but it's important to paint a room in the right order. Even the best painters using the best paints have drips, splatter and occasional spills. Make sure you try to follow the painting order below.

Ceilings

• Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the ceiling where it meets the wall. 
• Using a roller with an extension pole, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.

Walls

• Paint a 2-inch strip along ceiling, floor and woodwork with a brush. 
• Use a roller, coming as close to the edges as possible to create a clean, uniform appearance.

Woodwork

• Paint all trim around doors, windows, ceilings and floor.

Floor

• Start in a corner diagonally opposite the room exit.  
• Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the floor where it meets the wall or trim.
• Using a roller with an extension pole or a wide brush, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.

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Painting Techniques

Using good painting techniques is key to achieving professional-looking results. Another tip is to use enough paint. Get into the habit of going to the paint can often. Let the paint do the work, and you'll save time and get the finish you want.

Using a Brush

• Hold a brush near the base of the handle.  
• Dip half the bristles into the paint and tap on the lip of the can. Don't wipe it on the side.  
• Paint with enough pressure to bend the bristles slightly — don't bear hard on the brush.

Using a Roller

• Roll the roller slowly into the paint in the tray. Then, roll it back and forth until roller cover is evenly coated with paint.  
• Roll onto the tray's ridges to remove excess paint.  
• For smooth surfaces: Cover about a two-foot-square using the N pattern shown. Cross roll to spread the paint. Finish, with light roller strokes in one direction, at a right angle to the cross roll.

Painting Double-Hung Windows

• For double-hung windows move each sash to the center of its track and paint the inside sash, starting with the crossbars. Then, paint the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash; you'll use it to move the sash. Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, starting with the crossbar, then the frame. 
• Close the sashes to within several inches of the closed position. Paint the rest of the outer sash and the top edge of the inner sash. Paint the window casing, then the sill.  
• Paint the check rails. Move both sashes down as far as they will go, then paint the upper rails. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, move both sashes up and paint the lower rails of the window.

Casement or Awning Windows

• Open the windows and paint the top, side and bottom edges.  
• Finish with the crossbars, frame, casings and the sills.

Paneled Doors

• First remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. If paint does get on metal parts, wipe it up immediately with a soft cloth.
• Start by painting the panels, working from top to bottom. For each panel, paint panel molding first, then the interior, using up and down strokes with your brush.  
• Next, paint the rest of the door, finishing with the outer edges. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If the door swings in, paint the lockside edge.

Flush Doors

• Paint the edges first.  
• Then fill in the center area, working from top to bottom.  
• Finish with the frame and jamb

Remove all form release and curing agents.  Rough surfaces can be filled to provide a smooth surface.  If painting cannot wait 30 days, allow the surface to cure 7 days and prime the surface with masonry primer.

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Choosing a Primer

To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, be sure to properly apply primer to the surfaces you plan to paint.

Valspar primers are formulated to solve typical painting problems while helping to make your finish coat smooth and uniform:

Achieve a smooth, professional finish  Block stains, marks and odors  Assure adhesion  Speed topcoating  Prevent peeling  Attain the truest paint color in the fewest coats  Improve touch-up performance of the topcoat.

Get the long-lasting results you want with the right primer and room preparation techniques.

House Painting - Preparing

1. Prepparing
2. Surface Preparation
3. Surface Type Preparation Steps

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Prepparing

To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, take the time to ensure that the surface to be painted is clean, dry and smooth and coated with the correct primer.
Paint Depot USA paint expert can provide additional advice about which primer is right for your project.  And remember, we also carry all the tools you'll need for surface preparation - such as ladders, wire brushes, paint scrapers, putty knives, wood filler and spackling paste - to prepare a surface for painting.

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Surface Preparation

Preparation. It's the key to good-looking, long-lasting results. A properly prepared surface is clean, solid and dry, without cracks and imperfections.

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Surface Type Preparation Steps

Surface Type Preparation Steps

Bare Wood

• Fill nail holes, joints and cracks with patching paste. 
• Sand smooth and remove sanding dust with a tack cloth.
• Prime all bare wood and patched areas with a primer.

New Plaster Walls

These must be clean and completely cured. 

Textured or swirl types and soft, porous or powdery plaster must be:

Treated with a solution of one pint household vinegar in one gallon of water. 

Repeat the treatment until the surface is hard.

Rinse with plain water.

Let dry and apply primer.

New Drywall

Panels must be securely nailed or glued in place.  All panel joints must be taped and filled before painting.  When joint cement and/or patching materials are thoroughly dry, sand smooth, wipe away dust, then prime.

Wallpaper

Always remove wallpaper before painting. Use a chemical wallpaper remover or rent a steamer, if necessary.  Once the paper is removed, wash off old adhesive. Rinse with water and allow the wall to dry before priming.

Previously Painted Surfaces

Wash off dirt, grease, soap and oil buildup with the appropriate cleaner. Rinse thoroughly.  Remove loose paint and powdery substances.  Patch holes and cracks with spackling or patching compound. Allow to dry, then sand smooth.  For glossy or nonporous surfaces, lightly sand to a dull finish or use an abrasive cleanser.  Remove sanding dust or cleanser residue.

Make sure to prime all bare areas prior to applying topcoat. (Avoid "spot priming," which can result in a nonuniform appearance between primed and non-primed areas.)

Masonry, Concrete, Cement, Block

All new surfaces must be cured according to the supplier's recommendations- usually about 30 days.

Interior Paint: Choosing the Right Paint

House Paint - Planning

1. Choosing the Right Paint
2. Matching Paint to Surfaces
3. Selecting a Finish
4. Choosing the Right Brush
5. Choosing the Right Roller Cover
6. Pad Applicators

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Choosing the Right Paint - Wholesale

The type of paint you'll use depends on how the room to be painted will be used and the type of finish you want. Interior paint is specifically formulated to provide:

• Scrubbability and stain resistance
• Good hiding ability
• Good coverage
• Spatter resistance
• Easy touch-up

Latex or Oil? Interior house paints are either latex- or oil/alkyd-based. Today, most oil-based paints are made with synthetic resins (alkyds), which perform better than paints based on natural oils. Each has different characteristics and uses.
Latex - Get the longest-lasting finish with the best gloss retention. Valspar latex paints are easy to work with, dry quickly and are extremely durable. Latex paints clean up easily with soap and water.
Oil / Alkyd - Good adhesion, excellent durability and stain resistance make Valspar oil/alkyd-based paints excellent choices for trim in high-traffic rooms, such as kitchens and bathrooms. Clean paint tools with mineral spirits.

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Matching Paint to Surfaces

Choosing the right paint for the surface will help ensure that you achieve a quality paint job that will last.

• Ceilings - Use specially formulated flat ceiling paint. The flat finish hides irregularities and lap marks. Ceiling paint rolls on with minimal spatter and won't yellow over time.
• Woodwork - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint. Always prime bare wood. Easy-to-clean semi-gloss finishes are first choice, but when wear-and-tear is modest, flat or satin finishes are fine selections.
• Walls - Because it's easy to work with, latex paint is an excellent choice for do-it-yourself projects. Latex paints can be applied over properly primed drywall, wood or masonry.
• Metal - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint on properly primed iron or steel. You can apply latex directly on aluminum and galvanized metal. However, these metals need to be properly primed if you're using oil/alkyd-based paint.
• Masonry - For cement, concrete block and brick surfaces, acrylic latex wall paint designed for masonry surfaces is an excellent choice.
• Floors - "Quikrete" Use a product specifically designed for floor to stand up to abrasion, traffic and heavy scrubbing.

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Selecting a Finish

From flat to gloss, both latex and oil/alkyd paints offer a full range of finishes. The sheen you choose is based on the final look and wearability you want to achieve.

• Flat - Its matte appearance softens a room and helps hide surface blemishes, making walls look smooth. This finish, which cleans easily with a damp sponge, is ideal for:
  
  • Adult bedrooms
  • Dining rooms
  • Formal living rooms
  • Ceilings
• Satin - With its slight gloss, this finish offers the benefits of a flat finish with added cleanability. It works best for high-traffic areas such as:
  
  • Halls
  • Woodwork
  • Children's bedrooms
  • Family rooms
• Semi-Gloss - This lustrous, durable finish is perfect for areas that get cleaned frequently, such as:
  
  • Kitchens
  • Bathrooms
  • Utility area
  • Closet doors
  • Trim
• Gloss - This extremely hard and shiny finish provides a rich, smooth luster and is excellent for:
  
  • Wood trim
  • Cabinets Doors
  • Furniture.

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Choosing the Right Brush

Paint Depot USA paint brushes come in a variety of sizes, end types and bristles. A high-quality brush can mean a better-looking job with less effort. Why? Because a good-quality brush holds more paint and applies it more evenly, which can save you time and help you get the results you want.

Types of Brushes

• Natural-bristle brushes made with animal hairs are used for applying oil base paints, varnishes, shellac, polyurethane and other oil base finishes. The natural "flagging" (splitting or fuzzy tips) of these brushes creates split ends in the bristles that hold more paint and help assure a smooth paint release and finish.
• Blended nylon/polyester brushes are easy to clean and work well with all types of latex paints. The combination of nylon's durability and polyester's shape retention is the mark of a high-quality brush - one that also produces a high-quality paint finish. What's more, these durable brushes are built to handle numerous projects. So, with proper care, nylon / polyester brushes should last for years.
• Polyester brushes are best for latex paints. These brushes hold their shape and stiffness in any paint and apply paint smoothly and evenly.

Brush Sizes

The size you select is up to you, but a good rule of thumb is:

• 1" to 2" - window and other small trim
• 3" - glossy paints for doors and cabinets
• 4" - large, flat areas

Brush End Types

• Chisel Trim Brush - slanted bristles produce a good, straight line for trimming in corners and edges.
• Square Trim Brush - the ends of the bristles are cut square and used primarily for applying paint over flat areas.
• Angled Brush - bristles are cut to make it easier to apply paint to window trim.

Brush Styles

• Thin Angle Sash - slanted bristles and a thin profile produce a good, straight line for trimming in corners and edges.
• Angle Sash - features slanted bristles and holds more paint than its thin counterpart. Excellent for cutting in at the ceiling or painting trim.
• Flat Sash - bristles are straight across and used primarily for applying paint over flat areas.
• Trim - a flat brush excellent for painting large flat surfaces, especially exterior siding.
• Wall - a thick flat brush that holds a larger amount of paint. Excellent for painting larger surface areas.

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Choosing the Right Roller Cover

Rollers can be used to paint large, flat surfaces in much less time than it would take using a paintbrush. Your choice of roller cover depends on the type of paint (latex or oil) and the surface you're painting (smooth, rough or textured). Roller Covers are available in multiple fabric types (synthetic, natural or blend) to match the type of paint used and in several pile depths appropriate for different surfaces.

Fabric Types

• Synthetic covers (nylon, dacron or polyester) - ideal for most latex paints.
• Natural covers (mohair or sheepskin) - should be used with oil-based paints. If used with latex paints, the water in the paint may swell the fibers, causing them to become matted.
• Blended covers (polyester / wool blend) - combines the extra pickup of wool with polyester for longer life.Can be used with all paints.

Pile Depth

Pile depth refers to the thickness of the roller cover's fiber nap. It's essential to choose the right pile depth for the surface you're painting.

• Very Smooth - for metal doors and plaster
• Smooth - for drywall Semi-Smooth - for drywall
• Semi-Rough - for rough wood and acoustic tile Rough- for textured ceilings and stucco finishes
• Very Rough - for concrete block, brick and fences

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Pad Applicators

Pad applicators are versatile enough for use inside or outside your home. These painting tools are ideal for exterior siding, concrete block, shakes, shingles and fences. They also work well on interior walls, ceilings, floors and doors.
Pad applicators are perfect for latex or oil base paints, stains, sealers or wallpaper paste. Pads produce a smooth paint finish without the spatter that rollers sometimes cause.
Paint edgers are a version of pad applicators that eliminate the need for masking. They're designed for use on ceilings, doors, windows and baseboards.

Interior House Paint

House Paint: Prepare Room, Move Furniture

Posted by admin
Most of the information I have seen about painting around furniture while working on your interior house painting project tells you to move all of the furniture to the center of the room. This really is not very helpful. Think about a bedroom or living room. If you move all of the furniture to the middle of the room, you have created a huge obstacle to paint around. Even with the proper extension pole for your paint roller, such an obstacle in the center of the room is hard to work around. it is hard to reach over this obstacle to paint the ceiling.
What Interior House Painting Blog recommends is that you move the furniture away from the walls and arrange it with a few pieces in different areas of the room. This makes it easier to work around. Think of a chain of islands spread around the room rather than a huge continent in the center. Just make sure that you leave enough room between islands and walls to place a ladder next to them.
When moving furniture, practice safe lifting.

When moving furniture, take care not to damage it. Smaller light weight pieces of furniture can be picked up and moved. You may have to slide heavier pieces across the floor. Another thing to be very concerned about is the floor. Be careful not to scratch or cut any wooden or tile floors. Also, something that you may not think of is damage to carpet. Pushing or sliding heavy pieces of furniture across carpets can buckle the carpet, creating “hills and valleys” or lumps in carpet. What you need to do to avoid damage to any type of floor is to put large pieces of cardboard under the furniture and slide the furniture across the cardboard, thus protecting the floor. Visit a retail store to ask for some large, empty cardboard boxes and collapse the boxes to have a nice sheet of cardboard to slide the furniture over. Make sure the cardboard is thick enough, and be sure to remove any staples in the cardboard. Doing this at the beginning of your interior house painting project will avoid any damage to your floors.
You must also be very careful with any electrical outlets or switches in the room. You need to turn off the circuit breakers for the outlets in the room you are working on to avoid shock. Latex paint contains a lot of water, and everyone knows that water conducts electricity. Sometimes you may need to turn off more than one breaker for one room. A foolproof way to see if an outlet is off is to use a circuit tester. Inexpensive circuit testers may be purchased at any hardware store. Circuit testers consist of two wires or bars connected to a sealled light. If you plug the circuit tester into any outlet and it lights up, you will know you were not successful in turning off all electricity to the room you want to paint and you will have to to turn off the right breaker, perhaps several. After all of the electricity in the room is off, it is safe to remover the switch plates and outlet covers so as not to get any paint on them. Place all of the screws in a glass and be sure to place it somewhere that it will not be forgotten or knocked over.
You must cover all of your furniture with drop cloths. For this, use plastic sheets that you can buy at any paint or hardware store. Buy the thicker sheets. The thin sheets of plastic are hard to unfold and also tear easily. There are also drop cloths for your interior house painting job that are paper on one side and plastic on the other. These are also ideal for covering floors. You now know the best and the quickest way to set up a room to begin your interior house painting project.

Two-color Paint Effect

House Paint:

Do you live in an older house with plaster walls? Sometimes those old walls become uneven over time due to their nature, or bad patch repair jobs have created uneven spots, making the walls look irregular and bumpy. Rather than go to the expense of re-plastering whole walls, or replacing them with drywall (because you want to maintain the character of the house), here’s an easy solution to keep your eyes focused on the beauty of the wall, rather than the imperfect lumpy appearance: Apply a two-color paint effect with a roller finish.

Using two different, but complimentary, paint colors (one lighter than the other) will create a texture and finish that not only disguises any surface variations, but also lends depth and character to a wall. For this simple application you will need two cans of matte latex paint in complimentary colors, a roller tray, a masonry roller, and a 2-inch paint brush, as well as some drop cloth and painter’s tape to protect your ceiling, crown molding and base molding.

1. Pour about 1 pint of each color of paint into opposite sides of the deep end of the roller tray. They will sit next to each other without mixing too much. When you put the roller into the paint, remember to always keep the handle pointed in the same direction so you won’t blend the colors together in the tray.

2. Roll the roller into the paint, and then roll it backward and forward just once on the ridged part of the tray so the roller is thickly coated with the two shades of paint.

3. Work across the wall in sections of about 3-feet square (but a more roughly circular shape) to help prevent any hard lines. Roll the paint onto the wall in single, long strokes to transfer the majority of the paint onto the wall surface. Space each stroke of the roller a few inches apart from the other strokes. Then, without putting the roller back into the paint, roll it lightly across the thick strokes of paint on the wall, gently blending the colors together. Use the roller at different angles to develop a subtle, mottled finish. Keep in mind the more you roll over the wet paint, the more the colors will blend and the subtler the effect will be.

4. For corners and edges of the wall where the roller won’t reach, dip the end of the paint brush into both colors in the paint tray and dapples it onto those areas to maintain the two-tone effect.

5. Another variation of this technique is to give the wall a base coat of paint in a third complimentary color. Let the paint dry, then roller the other two colors loosely over the base coat and slightly blend them, keeping the effect dramatic and emphasizing the roller’s texture.

6. If a wall is mildly uneven, a subtle color contrast will work well. If a wall is very uneven, use more strongly contrasting colors that will give a bolder finish and will disguise bad patch-work more effectively. Remember, the more contrast between the two colors, the more dramatic and stronger the visual effect will be.Wholesale Paint Store

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