Friday, October 8, 2010

Paint Calculator - Estimate How Much Paint You'll Need (Download)

House Paint:The best Paint Calculator

The paint calculator estimates how many gallons of paint you will need for your next paint project around the house. Don't get stuck with too little or too much paint. Use this tool to find out how much will be right for the job. Buy Wholesale Paint

Paint Calculator

Ability to change price per gallon.
Ability to change paint coverage.
One click add second coat of paint.
One click to paint ceiling

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PLEASE NOTE: These paint calculations are not intended to give more
than a rough estimate and that precise paint needs will vary according
to many factors, including application method.

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Thursday, October 7, 2010

Wood: Clearing Confusion on Clears

Clearing Confusion on Clears

Every week it seems you see, hear or read about another new clear product on the market. If you’re confused about clears, wood preservatives, water-proofers or sealers that claim they will protect, preserve, seal and last longer, work better and go further than the competition. Let’s try to clear the air of confusion about clears with some straight talk. When choosing a finish for wood, there are two elements to consider: aesthetics and protection.

Aesthetically, there is a growing trend among homeowners to try and maintain the “natural” look of the wood’s original color. However, the best protection from the sun‘s U.V. rays is pigment and a delicate balance of resins, solids, chemical preservatives and/or waxes to protect the wood from moisture.

Thus the problem: balancing the aesthetic desires of the homeowner with the protective requirements of the wood surface. Given this delicate balancing act, stain manufacturers have produced a number of clear products to meet the aesthetic desires of the homeowner, as well as the protective requirements of the wood. Clear products can be classified into three distinctive categories:

Water Proofer/Sealers
Wood Preservatives
U.V.-Resistant Clears (blocking or absorbing)

Government regulations on raw materials used in the products, along with changing technology, has caused an abundance of new clear products on the market. High solids, water based, oil emulsion and traditional solvent based are just a few examples of the different types of clears sold within each of the three distinctive categories of clears. So, when choosing a clear product, it is important to match the aesthetic desires with the protective requirements of the wood and, at the same time, understand the limitations of the product.

Water-Proofing Sealers

Clear products that fall into this category are clear penetrating finishes. They typically contain a large amount of wax, usually paraffin, or some other proprietary wax that reduces the amount of water absorbed into the wood, thus preventing swelling, shrinking, warping and splitting. Because moisture is repelled, fungus, such as mildew, does not have the moisture needed to grow. These products offer spectacular beading of water upon initial application. However, they offer the wood no protection from the sun’s ultraviolet rays, resulting in the wood turning a yellow-gray, and then black. In addition, water-proofing sealers rarely contain more than just a small amount of resin. Thus the wax in the product quickly breaks down, and the water-beading properties vanish. The life expectancy of these products range from 6 months - 1 year on horizontal surfaces (decks), to 1-2 years on vertical surfaces. Examples of such products would include Thompson’s Water Seal, Cuprinol Clear Wood Seal and Cabot’s Clear Decking Stain. Cabot uses a complex mixture of micronized wax, dispersed in hydrocarbons, in our Clear Decking Stain. This micronized, water-repellent mixture is more easily dispersed within the resins of the product, providing water repellency wherever the product has penetrated the wood, not just the top surface.

Wood-Preserving Clears

These clears are very similar in appearance to water sealers/proofers except that they contain less wax, no resin, and an added EPA registered fungicide. Usually the amount of EPA approved fungicide is so slight that they add no significant benefit to the homeowner. The addition of these chemicals to the product, and the subsequent EPA registration, allows manufacturers to use the words “Wood Preserving” when describing the product. Without the EPA approved fungicide and registration, the “Wood Preserving” terminology is not allowed on the product’s label or literature. However, they offer the wood no protection from the sun’s ultraviolet rays, resulting in the wood turning a yellow-gray, and then black. In addition, wood-preserving clears do not contain any resins. Thus, the small amount of wax in the product quickly breaks down, and the waterbeading properties vanish. The life expectancy of these products can range from 6 months - 1 year. Wood Preserving Clears are becoming scarce in today’s marketplace for several reasons: The government has placed restrictions on some of the most commonly used fungicides used in this category of clears, and at the same time the reduction of these fungicides has left these clear products less effective. Also, the cost of the fungicides has caused manufacturers to take a closer look at the formulations. More recently, the widespread availability and use of pressure-treated wood has also had a negative effect on the popularity of Wood Preserving Clears. Wood Preservatives still on the market include Benjamin Moore 088 and Olympic Clear Wood Preservative. Increased regulations on the use of fungicides will contribute to the decline of products in this category.

U.V. Resistant Clears

U.V.-Resistant Clears are not truly clear, but rather products that impart a slight amber color or tone. To achieve this slight amber cast and afford the wood some protection from the sun’s U.V. rays, manufacturers will use everything from heavy dark neutral oils to transoxide pigments. Transoxide pigments are translucent and highlight the grain and texture of the wood. Because there is pigment in the product, the wood is receiving protection from the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Transoxide pigments are also versatile, finding success not only in traditional product formulas, but also in VOC-compliant formulas. The life expectancy of U.V.-Resistant Clears can range from 1-2 years on horizontal surfaces (decks), to 2-4 years on vertical surfaces. Cabot’s high-penetrating Clear Solution and Australian Timber Oil® provides a durable finish for both decks and siding. By penetrating deeply into the wood, Cabot Clear Solution and Australian Timber Oil provide increased protection to not only the wood surface, but also the underlying wood fibers. Matching the aesthetic desires of the homeowner with the protective requirements of the wood is a delicate balancing act. By having a clear understanding of the customer’s needs and by careful explanation of the benefits and limitations of the various clears, customer expectations will be satisfied. Wholesale Stain

Wood Fading and Flashing: Common but Misunderstood

FADING AND FLASHING

Fading and Flashing –Common but Misunderstood

Two extremely difficult problems paint and stain users wrestle with are Fading and Flashing. While both problems result in an unsightly appearance, their main causes are quite different. In an attempt to shed some light on these two complex types of coating failures, we have provided some technical insights. (We have also cited a few helpful hints toward prevention of these occurrences.) Why do paints and stains fade? Paints and stains are made up of resins or oils which are the binders that hold the pigments on the wood once the solvent evaporates. Resins and drying oils are the “glues” which bond to and protect the wood, holding everything in place. The harsh elements of our environment, like the sun’s ultraviolet radiation, rain, sleet, wind and heat, act on the resins and oils causing a degradation at the air/coating surface interface. When cured, resins and oils have varying degrees of sheen or gloss, and when that resin or oil is “wrapped” around the pigment, the total complex has a certain sheen or lustre. As the resins become exposed to ultra-violet radiation, water and wind shear, they break down into smaller chemical units which tend to easily wash off the surface. In the process of normal weathering, after the environmental elements break down the resin or oil, the pigments are exposed at the outer surface of the coating. The exposed pigments scatter or diffuse the light energy in random patterns resulting in a flatter appearance which is “fade.” Color changes may also take place. Incidentally, paint and stain manufacturers always use earth-tone and non-fade pigments in their coatings to help reduce the amount of visible fade. Following are some other reasons for fading:

Heat and rapid cooling cycles may result in fracturing of the coating. An example of this would be the south exposure (the sun side) being heated to 120-140 degrees, then suddenly cooled by a quick rain storm.
High elevations with more intense ultraviolet energy coupled with wind shear could result in rapid fade.
Poor surface preparation of chalky and contaminated surfaces will reduce the life of the coating’s color retention.
Application on severely weathered or sandblasted wood can result in a separation of the pigment from the binder as the binder and solvent rapidly penetrate into the extremely porous surface. The pigment-to-binder ratio is suddenly brought into an imbalance resulting in the pigment not being adequately protected. This imbalance causes premature fade. Flashing is described as a random, uneven sheen or gloss development, and is usually associated with oil-based stains and paints. Flashing is also referred to as oil “hold out.” It can occur when there are uneven porosity levels in the wood siding. Flashing is also possible when the product is unevenly applied, resulting in uneven film thickness. Applying a penetrating stain on a sealed surface will result in flashing.

"As the resins become exposed to ultraviolet radiation, water and wind shear, they break down into smaller chemical units which tend to easily wash off the surface."

Fading & Flashing – Common but Misunderstood #Areas of non-penetration of a semi-transparent or Cabot’s Semi-Solid Stain will be shinier than the areas where the stains penetrate. Dew and fog may affect the drying of a coating and result in uneven sheen or gloss. A form of flashing with repeated patterns is called “lapping.” Lapping occurs when the stain or flat paint is applied over an area which has partially or completely dried. An example of this is working from a ladder on horizontal lap or beveled siding. By the time the person completes a given section from top to bottom, then proceeds to apply the product at the top again, after moving the ladder, the new application over the partially dried section results in a double layer at the lap. The lapped section, which may be two to four inches in width, appears to have a shinier surface than the rest of the siding. Lapping can be avoided by applying the product within the confines of natural breaks in the siding, such as between a corner trim board and a window. Working from scaffolding will also help. A quality paint or stain job can be achieved when good preparation practices are followed, employing good construction practices, painting in a consistent manner, and avoiding very high temperatures and very windy days. Using quality paints, stains and brushes will always help ensure excellent results. Today, the use of technologically-advanced 100% acrylic (water-based) coatings can help prevent both fading and flashing. Due to the chemical make-up of 100% acrylic resins, these water-based coatings have superior ultraviolet protection, resulting in better color retention and less potential for fading. Also, 100% acrylic (water-based) coatings possess the ability to spread more evenly across a substrate. This balance results in an even sheen level, decreasing the chances for flashing. Whether it’s an oil- or water-based coating being used, proper application techniques, quality products, and especially thorough surface preparation will minimize fading and flashing occurrences.
“Applying a penetrating stain on a sealed surface will result in flashing.”

Wood Starting From Scratch: Remodeling & New Construction Tips

Starting From Scratch

Remodeling & New Construction Tips

Undoubtedly, the best way to protect exterior wood structures and prevent potential problems is to start the project from scratch. While not always an option with older homes and decks, new construction techniques and thorough surface preparation can virtually eliminate coating failure and provide nearly maintenance-free protection for years. This Technical Bulletin addresses issues pertaining to remodeling and new construction in order to provide a foundation for methodical and effective project management. As a rule of thumb, the longevity of any coating is a direct result of the time and quality invested in project preparation and execution. Consider these important issues when approaching your next remodeling or construction projects. Taking the time now to ensure the best results will certainly reward your efforts in the coming years.

Starting Out

Hire professionals with good references. Insist on quality installations and quality products.
Siding selection is important. You get the most value from buying ‘clear-all heart-vertical grain siding.’ This wood is usually hung smooth side out, and it will accept solid color stains and paints well. The next grade is ‘Aye or better’ which may contain one to two tight knots and could contain up to 10-15% flat-grained siding. Rustic grades are generally graded for the rough side of the lumber. This siding could contain a few tight knots, is generally hung rough side out, and contains flat-grain lumber.
Wood types available are:
- redwood
- western red cedar
- cypress
- eastern white cedar
- incense cedar
- pine
- mahogany and other imported hardwood species.
Wood in today’s marketplace may be second- and third-growth lumber. It is fast grown, may have knots and does not have the rot resistance of virgin-growth lumber.
Siding styles or patterns are important. Among the more popular siding styles are bevel cut, shiplap, tongue and groove, and channel rustic. And, of course, there are many styles of shingles available.
The open end-grain of siding is the main entrance point for water intrusion. This is the path tree cells use to transport water and nutrients and is most often the path for water transport which will cause problems for paints and stains. It is important to seal the ends of all boards.

Installation

After choosing the siding, the next consideration is hanging it.

First, the wood delivered to the site must be dry. Store the wood indoors if possible or store it off the ground on blocks. Protect the wood from rain with a protective, loose cover so the wood can breathe. Allow the wood to acclimate to the site conditions, i.e., temperature and humidity. Example: Tongue-and-groove (T&G) siding should not be hung with a moisture content of 20% or higher. Wet wood will shrink, and with T&G siding, this creates potential sites for water to enter the V-channel between two adjacent boards and cause problems. It is highly recommended to pre-prime the tongue-and-groove. To reduce the risk of rusting, use stainless steel nails.
Plywood siding delivered to the job site must also be dry. While the siding is still stacked on the ground, take the time to prime the edges to protect the wood from swelling by water absorption. The same is true of hardboard siding. To reduce water infiltration, re-prime all cut edges before installation.
Trim boards also come in vertical-grain, flat-grain and finger-jointed versions. Pine trim boards may have a smooth, resinous pitch on the surface due to the planing operation or inadequate kiln drying. Lightly scratch-sand new trim boards to obtain a better bite for the primer or stain.
Caulk all joints with a quality 100% acrylic compound, a paintable, siliconized acrylic blend, or where required to fill larger joints, use a high-elongation, polyurethane sealant.
Replace loose or missing caulking. Don’t overlook the roof-siding joint. Water running down the roof will find its way into the adjacent dormer siding. This is one area often plagued by peeling paint and mildew.
Use flashing over all windows and doors. Exterior T1-11 plywood and hardboard panels require a special flashing between the panels.
Provide good ventilation in all crawl and attic spaces as well as the living spaces. Interior moisture can create paint failures if it reaches the sheathing and siding. Dehumidify humid basements. Maintain the interior humidity levels at 40-45% or lower.

Decks and Outdoor Furniture

Horizontal surfaces require more maintenance than vertical surfaces.
Construction: When possible, Cabot recommends drying the wood thoroughly and staining all six sides prior to assembly.
Pressure-treated wood should season no more than three weeks prior to staining. This wood tends to be more moisture sensitive than other species and should be stained sooner.
Properly-built decks should be 18 inches off the ground or higher. Decks built too close to the ground can fail prematurely. Good air circulation is required.
Wood types used in decking include redwood, red cedar, Alaskan yellow cedar, Port Orford cedar, treated pine, fir, and recently, mahogany.
The open end-grain of railing systems, furniture legs and/or other structures which come in contact with the ground must be saturated with stain. This is a principal point of water infiltration.

Note: Careful attention to all the above-listed construction practices will provide a more stable substrate to eventually be stained or painted. These steps are essential in providing a longer-lasting coating on your home or deck.

Wood Protecting: Winter Foes…Springtime Woes

Marcial Larrauri.
During the winter months, many sections of the United States and Canada undergo serious climate and atmospheric disturbances. People living along the Atlantic and Pacific coasts deal with severe snow and rain, which is often accompanied by high winds, sub-zero temperatures and coastal flooding. These seasonal conditions, or Winter Foes, can cause exterior coating problems. Most of us tend to stay indoors and not think about what has or what may be occurring around the outside of our homes. As spring approaches, it is time to get outdoors and examine our properties to survey the damage that the winter has inflicted. These problems become our Springtime Woes. Some of the most widespread problems and their solutions are addressed below.
The Problems
Why would your paint or solid color stain peel? The usual reason for peeling is excessive moisture or free-running water coursing through the wood. Excessive moisture causes wood to swell, and with this swelling, the adhesion of the paint or solid color stain is compromised. (Blistering and peeling most often occur on the south and west walls where the sun accelerates the process.) The moisture can come from several areas around the home – heavy snow on the roof which melts and forms ice dams at the eaves; wind-driven snow that packs against the siding and melts; wind-driven rain that can find its way through the tiniest openings; flooded basements that can saturate the home with excessive moisture; lack of flashing on windows and doors and lack of caulking compound at joints; and high humidity within the interior of the home without adequate interior ventilation.
Did your deck develop a peeling problem during the winter? Peeling deck stain or paint is also caused by excessive moisture that infiltrates the deck boards through cracks or saw-cut ends. Ice and snow that sit on the deck for long periods of time will eventually melt and saturate the wood. If the deck is built too close to the soil, ground water will find its way into the structure. Pool and furniture covers also trap water underneath them, limiting air circulation and preventing the wood from properly drying. Trapped moisture and poor air circulation can cause serious peeling problems, not to mention mildew and algae growths. Did you notice a red-brown discoloration on your siding this spring? This problem may be tannin or extractive bleeding. Tannin or tannic acid is a naturally occurring, water-soluble resin produced by the heartwood of red species of trees, such as red cedar and redwood. Tannin bleed is not a paint or stain failure. It will not harm the paint or stain, but it may accompany peeling problems as both conditions are caused by excessive moisture in the wood. You might notice tannin streaking at the butt ends of your lap siding because the cut ends, or butts, were not protected. Tannin solutions could also be running out from behind the wood or at the nails. These streaking patterns you see are also caused by high concentrations of moisture that get behind the siding. Tannin bleed can also appear as an overall diffused pattern on your wood. This diffused pattern may be the result of wet snow that packs against the house, or fog or dew settling on the siding and entering the wood because the paint or stain is too thin and porous.
The Cause
How can you avoid these problems in the future? Certain steps should be taken to eliminate moisture. If you need to, hire a reputable contractor to determine how the moisture infiltrates the wood. You may also be able to do an examination on your own. Start by checking the flashing and caulking around doors and windows, and try to maintain the interior humidity of your home at approximately 40%. Interior moisture can travel through the smallest openings in the walls and condense on the cold sheathing and siding. This form of moisture is not usually noticed until the warmer weather arrives, when it is too late and the damage has been done. During the winter months, if possible, remove the snow from the roof or install heating wires at the eaves to melt the ice before water can back up under the roof shingles. You should also be sure your attic is adequately insulated to prevent heat from escaping from your living quarters. A tremendous amount of heat can be lost if proper insulation isn’t used, and this heat will melt the snow on the roof. Try to keep your attic space cold with good air circulation. Attic vents should provide one square foot of unobstructed opening for each 150 square feet of floor space. For your deck, try to remove the snow and ice as it accumulates. Place your pool and furniture covers in such a way that water can evaporate and not get trapped on your deck surface. If you are building a new deck, consider staining all sides of the boards, especially the end grain, as this will help prevent the penetration of moisture.
The Solution
How can you correct your coating problem? Determine the extent of the problem by performing tape pull tests in both peeling and “good” areas with transparent tape. Simply press the tape against dry siding (a false-positive test will result with wet wood) with thumb pressure and rip it off. If any paint or stain is removed with the tape, the adhesion in those areas is poor and must be corrected. The next step is to prepare the affected areas by scraping, power washing, or spot sanding, feathering to eliminate sharp edges where existing paint meets raw wood. (Also refer to “Surface Preparation.”) Remove any sanding dust and allow the siding to dry thoroughly if power washing was employed. Your deck can be handled in the same manner. For the best results, sand the stain buildup back to bare wood. Power washing may be used to lift peeling stain. Clean the deck with Cabot Problem-Solver® Cleaner, then rinse the deck. (Also refer to “Horizontal Hassles.”) When the deck has been allowed to dry adequately, a penetrating stain will yield the best results; and when properly applied, the coating will breathe and allow the moisture to escape before any damage can occur. These stains weather naturally, which means less labor when it comes time to rejuvenate the deck in two to four years.
How do you remove tannin bleed? Tannin stains can be removed easily with a garden hose if removal is attempted within a relatively short period of time. If the stains tend to be more stubborn, use Cabot Problem-Solver® Brightener diluted according to the label directions. Leave solution on the surface for 10-15 minutes, then rinse with clear water. Tannin bleed can be controlled by preventing excessive moisture from infiltrating the wood siding. The same conditions mentioned above that cause peeling problems also pertain to tannin bleed – ice dams, high interior moisture, etc. (For additional information refer to “Extractive Bleeding.”) In nearly all cases, moisture is found to be responsible for exterior coating problems. To better understand and control the effects of moisture, refer to “Controlling Moisture.” For accurate and complete information regarding your specific project, call 1-800-US-STAIN. Technical Service Consultants are available to provide answers to all of your technical questions, and they can provide advice for every exterior coating project.

Wood Protecting: Protecting Exterior Woods from Mold and Mildew.

Wood Protecting

Protecting Exterior Woods from Mold and Mildew

Obviously you don't want fungus and micro-organisms feasting on your wood finishing projects. Mildew will blacken affected areas and over time may damage your wood. This section covers mold and mildew prevention and repair.

Establish a zero tolerance policy for moisture.

Follow these tips to keep moisture out.

Cabot Problem-Solver® Cleaner

Minimize Moisture

For mold and mildew no meal is complete without a beverage. Take away their water and these two wood threats will move on to greener pastures. Make a thorough survey of possible moisture sources and stop mold and mildew before they start.

Move your plants back from your deck

If your plants are hanging over your deck, you are asking for trouble from mold and mildew. Plant your shrubs and foliage where they cannot drip on woodwork.

Re-route water away from your home

Make sure your roof has an effective gutter system and your surrounding property had sufficient drainage. Shovel snow off flat surfaces including roofs and decks, and schedule periodic checks on the flashing and caulking around doors and windows.

Clean your surfaces every spring and every fall

Establish a bi-annual cleaning schedule and don't forget to wash your surfaces with Cabot Problem-Solver® Cleaner. Cabot Problem-Solver® Cleaner is specially formulated to remove stains from mold and mildew as well as general surface dirt and contamination.Wholesale Stain

Wood Protecting: Keep your wood looking its best year after year.

Wood Protecting

Handyman vs. The Elements
Everyone knows winter can wreak havoc on exteriors, and some of the worst problems don't show themselves till spring. Here are some post-thaw cures and some preventive maintenance suggestions that'll keep your exterior wood surfaces looking their best year after year.

Establish a zero tolerance policy for moisture.

Follow these tips to keep moisture out.
Check your flashing and caulking around doors and windows.
Monitor interior humidity and keep it at 40%.
Don't let snow pile up on your roof over the winter. Shovel it off and consider installing heat wires in the eaves.
Keep you attic insulated to keep heat in living areas, but keep the attic itself, cool and well ventilated.
Remove ice as it accumulates on your deck.
Place furniture covers so they can't trap damaging moisture.

The Problem: Peeling Solid Color Stain

When moisture gets into your wood, it can compromise your stain job, causing blistering and peeling-particularly on the south and west walls where the sun accelerates the damage. Trapped moisture and poor air circulation can also cause serious peeling problems, not to mention mildew and algae growths.

The Problem: Brown Discoloration

Post-winter discoloration is usually caused by tannin bleeding, also known as extractive bleeding. Tannin bleed is not a stain failure but may accompany peeling problems as both conditions are caused by moisture in the wood.

Repairs

Perform a tape test. See just how bad the situation is by pressing transparent tape against the wood. If stain comes off, you've got an adhesion problem.

Prep the surface and reapply. Time to break out the power washer and sanding tools. Clean your deck with Cabot Problem-Solver® Cleaner (also see Horizontal Hassles). Use Cabot Problem-Solver® Brightener to remove tannin bleed, if present. Then, when the deck is all dry, apply a penetrating stain. For more information regarding your specific project, call 1-800-US-STAIN.

Volatile Organic Compounds

Volatile Organic Compounds
The United States Congress over the last several years has enacted legislation pertaining to the reduction of pollution in our environment – air, land and water. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has been given the responsibility of writing, controlling, and enforcing the various regulations. The Clean Air Acts of 1990, the latest Congressional re-authorization, require each state to comply with regulations which will reduce air pollution, especially street-level ozone, a hazardous component of smog. One way in which this can be accomplished is by reducing the Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) or solvents in AIM (Architectural & Industrial Maintenance) coatings. The EPA will issue national standards for VOC limits for all AIM products. To make a product VOC compliant, manufacturers increase the level of solids in a product and lower the amount of solvents, the actual VOC component. Solids are defined as any non-solvent part of the product and would include pigment, mildewcides, resins (oils), flattening agents, etc. The higher level of solids in these stains does not mean that the product looks different when applied. A semi-transparent stain will still allow the natural texture and grain of the wood to show through, and a solid stain is still opaque and flat in appearance. The long-term durability of the VOC product is still the same. In fact, the durability of VOC-compliant products may be enhanced due to the increase in solids. However, three aspects of these higher solid products do change – handling characteristics such as brush drag, slower drying and increased film build. Increased brush drag and slower drying time mean that these coatings will have expanded “open-time” leading to a more uniform application. An increase in film build means that more product is applied to the surface, which leads to greater hide and increased durability for one-coat applications. Cabot has been manufacturing VOC-compliant products since 1987 and has gained considerable experience in their handling and application. As part of our ongoing commitment to our customers, we are taking this opportunity to provide a better understanding of the correct application techniques for these products. It is important for the Cabot dealer and the applicator of VOC products to understand the differences in the handling and application of VOC-compliant stains and paints vs. the non-compliant stains and paints that are more familiar. Below are some hints, which when followed, will allow for increased success with the application of VOC stains.
1. One coat of VOC-compliant O.V.T.® Solid Color Oil Stain (#6500) and VOC-compliant Bleaching Oil™ (#3241) is recommended. Two coats may result in a higher sheen. For complete hiding, additional coats may be required with lighter colors. Always test a small area prior to applying a second coat. Remember, because of the higher solids in VOC-compliant products, greater brush drag and increased film build lead to increased hiding.
2. Cabot Semi-Transparent (#0300) or Semi-Solid® (#0100) stains are already produced in a VOC-compliant formula. Two coats are recommended for maximum durability on new, porous wood. Always test a small area prior to applying a second coat. One coat is recommended for redo work.
3. Do not apply Cabot VOC-compliant oil-based products over previously painted, non-porous, or sealed surfaces, including Problem-Solver Primer. The high solids content formula of VOC-compliant O.V.T. Solid Color Stains (#6500) has excellent cedar-bleed retarding properties.
4. When staining a previously stained surface which is still porous, the surface must be cleaned prior to staining. Power washing is recommended. Proper surface preparation is the key to maximum performance.
5. The surface must be thoroughly dry. After power washing, allow 3-5 days of dry weather before restaining. The moisture content of the wood should be 15% or less.
6. Because of the reduction in solvent, these VOC stains must be applied at 50°F or higher. The viscosity will increase at lower temperatures.
7. New wood that is unseasoned or appears shiny (mill-glazed) should be allowed to weather sufficiently before staining, but generally no longer than three months.
8. Cabot Problem-Solver® Primers may be applied to new, smooth (mill-glazed) lumber without waiting or seasoning, as long as the wood is dry. Topcoat Problem-Solver Primer with Cabot O.V.T. Solid Color Acrylic Stain or The Finish by Cabot.
9. A natural bristle brush is recommended for application of solvent-based products. When spraying, it is critical that backbrushing be done immediately after each section is coated to ensure proper penetration and maintain the recommended spread rates.
10. The high solids content of VOC-compliant O.V.T. Solid Color Stain (#6500) will increase the brush drag of the product and can lead to overapplication. Be sure to apply the product at the proper spread rates.
11. It is illegal for contractors and homeowners to thin VOC-compliant products. We do not recommend intermixing Semi-Transparent Stains (#0300) with the VOC-compliant O.V.T. Solid Color Oil Stain (#6500) to reduce the viscosity.

Wood Staining: Staining Siding and Fences

Wood Staining

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep
Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Siding and Fences
Select the right surface prep product
Choose your stain color and finish
Siding and Fences

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep

Vertical surfaces, such as fences, have different exposures, different absorption rates - different needs altogether. So what works on your deck or outdoor furniture may not be right for the siding on your home. Cabot understands the unique needs of each project. That's why we offer products that are specifically designed for your siding and fence surfaces.

Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Siding and Fences

Here's everything you'll need to get it right the first time.

Drop cloth
Garden pump sprayer
Cabot Problem Solver Wood Cleaner
Deck scrub brush or Power washer
Sanding block
sanding paper and Broom
Garden hose
Gloves
Safety glases
Empty gallon can / lid (1/4 full with water for rags)
Brush (bristle brush)
Cabot Decking Stain

Select the right surface prep product

Evaluate surface condition. Are mildew stains present, or evidence of extractive bleeding? Cabot provides a full selection of surface prep products. You will have no trouble finding a product that addresses your surface's specific prep needs.
Cabot Composite Decking Stains are water-repellent stains give a mildew-resistant coating while also resisting cracking, peeling, and blistering.

Choose your stain color and finish

Cabot offers a full range of stain options including naturals, decking and solids color stains. To make your decision between colors and opacities easier, we sell 4 oz sample sized cans in our Sample Store. To be sure you'll be pleased with the final result try it first.
Naturals
Tinted finishes add sheer, nearly transparent color allowing the most wood grain and texture to show through.View natural colors
Semi-Solids
Unique semi-solid/semi-opaque finish that mostly masks the wood grain but allows texture to show through.View semi-solid colors
Solids
Solid finish adds rich, opaque color that completely hides the wood grain while allowing some texture to show through.View solid colors

Siding and Fences

Generally, the best method to apply Cabot oil-based products is a high quality, natural bristle brush, and either a high quality polyester or nylon brush for our acrylic products. However, professional sprayers may be used for the majority of our products. See Spray Gun Application for more information. Always follow product instructions to the letter and don't forget to re-stain the surface depending on anticipated weathering.

Wood Staining: How to Stain Decks

Wood Staining

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep
Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Decks
Step 1: Evaluate the deck surface
Step 2: Selecting the right stain
Step 3: Apply stain

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep

Your wood is an investment. Protect it with premium wood beautification and preservation products from Cabot. Follow this step-by-step guide for a professional looking finish.

Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Decks

Here's everything you'll need to get it right the first time.

Drop cloth
Garden pump sprayer
Cabot Problem Solver Wood Cleaner
Deck scrub brush or Power washer
Sanding block
sanding paper and Broom
Garden hose
Gloves
Safety glases
Empty gallon can / lid (1/4 full with water for rags)
Brush (bristle brush)
Cabot Decking Stain

Step 1: Evaluate the deck surface

First inspect your deck surface for mildew, tannic bleeding, and damage (see Cleaning Up). Then choose the right Cabot surface prep products for your job.

Step 2: Selecting the right stain

Step 3: Apply stain

Wood: Clears and Translucents Colors

Clears and Translucents

Tinted finishes add sheer, nearly transparent color allowing the most wood grain and texture to show through. Clear finishes protect and beautify the wood. Review our opacity scale to determine your perfect balance of color and protection.

Wood: Semi-Solids Colors

Semi-Solids

This unique semi-solid/semi-opaque finish masks the wood grain but allows texture to show through. While Semi-Solid Stains provide greater opacity, they still highlight the natural texture of wood and provide a deep-penetrating, flat finish. Review our opacity scale to determine your perfect balance of color and protection.

Wood: Solid Color

Solids

Rich, opaque, vibrant color for most every exterior surface. Cabot O.V.T. Solid Color Stain and The Finish house and trim paints are specially formulated to provide long-lasting colors that keeps exterior surfaces maintenance-free for years. Review our opacity scale to determine your perfect balance of color and protection.

Staining: All you need is quality coatings products and the techniques outlined below. Review the Staining topics below before you start working.

Wood Staining

Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Interiors
Make sure your surface is thoroughly clean
Sand in the direction of the grain
Apply Cabot stain
Apply Cabot Polyurethane

Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Interiors

Staining interior surfaces is well within the weekend DIY warrior's skill set. Just be sure to prep your surfaces methodically, allow ample time for your finishes to dry, and wear appropriate protective gear to guard your ears against power tool noise and your lungs against dust and potent chemicals.

Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Interiors

Here's everything you'll need to get it right the first time.

Belt sander or Orbital sander
Sanding block
Hammer
Pry bar
Respirator
Ear protection
Goggles
Sandpaper
Tack cloth
Lint free cloth

Make sure your surface is thoroughly clean

It is very important that the surface to be finished is clean and free of any paint, varnish, dirt, wax or sealer. If necessary, strip the surface and thoroughly clean the surface with mineral spirits.

Sand in the direction of the grain

Be sure to sand bare wood with the grain direction to remove any blemishes or fibers that may contaminate the finish. Use progressively finer grit sandpaper to smooth the surface. Remove all sanding dust and particles with a tack cloth
WARNING!
If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH-approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log onto www.epa.gov/lead.

Apply Cabot stain

Apply Cabot Polyurethane

Allow the first coat of polyurethane to completely dry before preparing for additional coats. Rough the surface between coats. For oil based systems, rub the surface with # 0000 steel wool for a smooth finish. When using water-based polyurethane, sand lightly with 400-grit sandpaper. Either way, make sure to wipe the surface completely with a tack cloth between coats.

Choosing a Stain Color: You can achieve professional results with Cabot products and these tips

Choosing a Stain Color

Color ?

Follow these tips to understand the roundabouts of the color wheel. Then read the basics below for choosing the right stain color and pairing colors for your project.

The color wheel is a handy tool for designing palette schemes.

Here's are some tips for choosing the right color.

Primary colors are red, yellow, and blue.
Secondary colors are green, orange, and violet.
True complements are colors directly opposite from each other on the color wheel
Split complements are the colors on either side of a color's true complement
Alternate complements are colors which are two steps away from a color.
Red, red-orange, orange, yellow-orange, yellow and yellow-green are warm colors
Green, blue-green, blue, blue-violet, violet and red-violet are considered cool colors
Neutrals are almost non-colors - grays, black, white, browns and beiges
Light colors reflect light and appear to enlarge an object or area
Dark colors absorb light and have the opposite effect

Color Choice Basics

Consider the color of the wood. The substrate always affects the final result, especially with clears and translucent or semi-transparent stains.

Colors look different depending on the light source. You should always evaluate a color choice under the real-world light source, e.g., sunlight for exterior surfaces.
Never rely solely on a small chip to determine a final color choice. For best results, a sample of the chosen color should be brushed out on the surface to which it will be applied.
Coating colors change as they dry-don't make any decision concerning color choice until your project has dried.

Wood Prepping: Vertical vs. Horizontal When Staining

Wood Preparing

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep
Surface issues
Horizontal Hassles
Ultra Violet Light
Moisture
Extreme Temperature Shifts
Prevention and Maintenance

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep

Different stain projects are subject to different stresses and strains. Cabot product formulations reflect these differences. A deck for example, is going to take a different kind of beating from the elements than beveled siding. In general, horizontal surfaces require far more maintenance and preventive treatment than vertical.

Surface issues

Mother nature can really wreak havoc on your exterior wood surfaces. These elements will keep you protecting your wood surfaces.

Sunlight
Moisture
Extreme Temperature Shifts

Horizontal Hassles

Because of its horizontal structure, decks are particularly susceptible to foot traffic and harsh weather conditions, including acid rain, ultraviolet light, heat, extreme temperature change, rain, dew, frost, ice, and snow.

Ultra Violet Light

Over time U.V. light can permanently damage horizontal wood surfaces causing decks, for example, to fade more rapidly. Protect your horizontal surfaces with a specially formulated U.V. resistant clear.

Moisture

Raindrops, dew, melting ice-it all rolls off siding. But these potential threats have a way of hanging around horizontal surfaces, seeping into the wood, collecting in puddles, nourishing mold and mildew under off-season furniture coverings.

Extreme Temperature Shifts

Freestanding pools of water can freeze in winter cracking your wood. In dry areas, the hot temperature removes moisture in the wood, drying it out and causing fading and again cracking.

Prevention and Maintenance

If you do not take proper precautions to protect your horizontal surfaces, you may find them turning gray and dingy, splitting and warping, suffering from blemishes caused by mold and mildew. Cabot manufactures a full range of products designed to help you protect and maintain both horizontal and vertical wood surfaces. Choose products according to their vertical or horizontal formulation and always follow the instructions on the label.

Prepping: Hardwood vs. Softwood When Staining

Wood Preparing

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep
Hardwoods vs. Softwoods Considerations
Appearance
Durability
Stability

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep

When starting your stain project from scratch one of the first choices concerns wood. Do you choose the wood you find most aesthetically pleasing or go with the wood that requires the least maintenance?

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods Considerations

Here are a few basic parameters to help you frame your decision.

Appearance
Durability
Stability

Appearance

First decide on the look you want. You're going to be living with your project for year so make sure you choose a wood you love for its looks.

Durability

Woods all wear differently. Hardwoods can really take a beating, but that added density makes them harder to work with, so choose hardwoods for smaller projects like decks, window frames, and doors. Good choices include mahagony and teak for furniture and ipe for decks.

Stability

Wood Prepping: How to Remove Surface Contaminants Before Staining

Wood Preparing

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep
Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Prep Work
Mildew
Chalkiness
Cedar Bleed
Nailhead Rusting
Cracking and Peeling

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep

When it comes to surface contaminants, the usual suspects are mildew and mold, chalkiness, extractive bleeding due to tannic acid, cracking, peeling, and blistering of old coating, and streaking from rusty nails. The treatments outlined below should take care of these common problems.

Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Prep Work

Here's everything you'll need to get it right the first time.

Clean cloth
Household bleach
Sodium metasilicate detergent (for treating chalkiness)
Problem-Solver® Wood Cleaner
Oxalic acid based solution (for treating cedar bleed)
Problem-Solver® Brightener
Rubber gloves and personal protective gear

Mildew

Mildew, dirt, soot and other pollutants often appear as black dots or specks on the surface. To determine the correct treatment, apply a small amount of fresh household bleach to these black areas. If the dark discoloration lightens quickly, mildew is present. Dirt, soot and other pollutants will not change color but may simply move within the bleach solution.

Chalkiness

Surface chalkiness must be removed with a detergent (sodium metasilicate) wash before staining.

Cedar Bleed

Cedar bleed (tannic acid) is a reddish-brown discoloration that may make old stain applications appear blotchy or uneven. If you think your surface has cedar bleed, call Cabot's Technical Service and Support Department for assistance. An oxalic acid based solution will effectively remove the discoloration.

Nailhead Rusting

First, identify and remove the source of moisture causing the problem. Coatings can be removed with Problem-Solver Wood Stripper. Apply wood stripper for oil-based coatings with a pump sprayer. Finally, scrape and sand the wood to sound condition. Be sure your surface is clean and thoroughly dry before staining. Use caution when scraping and using wood strippers.

Cracking and Peeling

Wood Prepping: The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep

Wood Preparing

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep
Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Prep Work
Examine the area to be stained
WARNING!
Test the surface
Make any necessary repairs
Identify surface contaminants

The Basics of Exterior Staining Prep

Superior performance begins with methodical surface preparation. Follow these prep steps to achieve long-lasting, professional results.

Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Prep Work

Here's everything you'll need to get it right the first time.

Clean cloth
Garden Pump Sprayer
Cabot Problem Solver Wood Cleaner
Scraper
Scrub brush or power washer
Ladder
Safety Glasses
Rubber Gloves
Cabot Problem Solver Brightener (for extractive issues)

Examine the area to be stained

First check the general condition of the wood. Is there any erosion, rot or decay? Make any necessary repairs. You must remove any and all such contaminants before staining. Use Cabot Problem Solver Wood Cleaner with a scrub brush or power washer.

WARNING!

If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH-approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log onto www.epa.gov/lead.

Test the surface

First, press a piece of household tape firmly against the surface to be stained, then tear it away and examine the back. The presence of old stain or loose wood fibers on the tape could mean a potential problem. The surface must be dry at the time of staining.

Make any necessary repairs

Before staining, replace rotting or decayed wood. Remove loose stain and eroded wood fibers by sanding, scraping, or power washing the problem surfaces.

Identify surface contaminants

Once the surface is in good condition, re-inspect for dirt, mildew, cedar bleed, chalkiness and other foreign substances. It is important to identify each type of contaminant, as each requires its own treatment.

Here's how to make sure your wood surface is clean, dry, and sound. Review the prepping topics below before you start working.

Wood Preparing

The Basics of Interior Staining Prep
Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Prep Work
Examine the area to be stained
Sand with the proper paper
Prepare your wood
Test your stain color

The Basics of Interior Staining Prep

Superior performance begins with methodical surface preparation. Follow these prep steps to achieve long-lasting, professional results.

Essential Tools and Materials for Staining Prep Work

Here's everything you'll need to get it right the first time.

Lint free cloth
Sand paper (80-220 grit)
Sanding block
Tack cloth
Safety glasses
Rubber gloves
Household bleach
Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP)
Bristle Brush

Examine the area to be stained

Before applying the proper finish to your wood, all surfaces must be clean, dry and unsealed by any previously applied varnish or polyurethane.

Sand with the proper paper

Select high-quality sandpaper that reflects the grit number marked on the back of the sheet. Grit sandpaper usually comes in 100, 150, 180, and 200. A larger number means finer grit. Start with 100 grit (most cases); next use 150; then finish with 220. Be careful as higher grits can create a burnished surface that will not accept stain properly. Remove all sanding dust with a tack cloth or rag before staining.

Prepare your wood

When staining softwoods such as pine, birch, or fir, we strongly recommend the use of Cabot Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Designed to stabilize uneven wood grain, Cabot Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner eliminates blotchy color and inconsistent stain coverage.

Test your stain color

Before applying the Cabot stain, stir well to make sure the stain pigment is completely dispersed. Brush out a little stain on a same piece of wood type to make sure the color meets your expectation.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

House Painting: It's easy to protect your investment in quality painting tools.

House Paint - Cleaning

Latex Paints
Oil Alkyd Paints
Protect Your Paint Job
Tips to Protect the Environment

Latex Paints

Clean-up procedures depend largely on the paint you use. Here are guidelines for cleaning up. To maximize your investment on painting tools, make sure to clean them right after use.

Latex Paints

Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with water.
Clean brushes, rollers and other tools with soap and water.
After cleaning, flush spraying equipment with mineral spirits to prevent rusting. Follow manufacturer's safety recommendations when using mineral spirits.

Oil Alkyd Paints

Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
Oil-based (alkyd) paint must be removed from tools with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
Pour the cleaning material into a clean bucket and rinse brushes and rollers well.
When done, allow the solids to settle out of the cleaner, then strain the liquid back into the original container for reuse.
Allow the settled solids to air-dry away from children, pets or open flames, then dispose of the container in the trash.
Brushes should be kept in their original wrapper or paper-wrapped in a manner that retains their original shape before storing.

Protect Your Paint Job

Wait at least two weeks before washing the newly painted surface. After that, clean with a mild household detergent and a soft cloth or sponge.

Tips to Protect the Environment

Try to buy only the amount of paint you need so there is little to dispose of when you complete your project. If you do have leftovers, follow these guidelines:
Save small amounts of leftover paint for future touch-ups. To keep it fresh, place a layer of plastic wrap over the mouth of the can before replacing the lid. Pound down the lid securely.
Check with your local waste collector to see if it accepts dried latex paint. If so, place the open can in an airy spot away from children and pets. When the paint is completely dry, put it in the trash.
Seal oil/alkyd paints in the can and store them safely away from heat sources until you can take them to an appropriate waste-disposal site, such as community paint/stain collection events where you can safely dispose of leftover paints.
Never pour paint, stain, or any other coating down a drain, into a storm sewer or anywhere else that might contaminate the environment.

House Paint: Knowing how to paint a room is the key to a successful painting project.

House Paint - Painting

Getting Ready to Paint
Painting Order
Painting Techniques
Choosing a Primer

Getting Ready to Paint

Preparing the room before beginning your project not only makes it easier for you to paint, it also protects your home from inadvertent splatters or spills.

Remove draperies, pictures, mirrors, area rugs, hardware (if possible), and switch and receptacle cover plates.
Move all furniture to the center of the room or the room, if possible.
Cover all furniture with drop cloths.
Tape off woodwork and tape down plastic drop cloths.
Wrap plastic around light fixtures, and use masking tape to cover any hardware you can't remove.
Open a window or door to ensure good ventilation.
Clean the surface as needed.
Gaps between walls, ceilings, crown moldings and other interior trim can be filled with the appropriate caulk after priming the surface.

Painting Order

It may seem obvious, but it's important to paint a room in the right order. Even the best painters using the best paints have drips, splatter and occasional spills. Make sure you try to follow the painting order below.

Ceilings

Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the ceiling where it meets the wall.
Using a roller with an extension pole, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.

Walls

Paint a 2-inch strip along ceiling, floor and woodwork with a brush.
Use a roller, coming as close to the edges as possible to create a clean, uniform appearance.

Woodwork

Paint all trim around doors, windows, ceilings and floor.

Floor

Start in a corner diagonally opposite the room exit.
Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the floor where it meets the wall or trim.
Using a roller with an extension pole or a wide brush, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.

Painting Techniques

Using good painting techniques is key to achieving professional-looking results. Another tip is to use enough paint. Get into the habit of going to the paint can often. Let the paint do the work, and you'll save time and get the finish you want.

Using a Brush

Hold a brush near the base of the handle.
Dip half the bristles into the paint and tap on the lip of the can. Don't wipe it on the side.
Paint with enough pressure to bend the bristles slightly — don't bear hard on the brush.

Using a Roller

Roll the roller slowly into the paint in the tray. Then, roll it back and forth until roller cover is evenly coated with paint.
Roll onto the tray's ridges to remove excess paint.
For smooth surfaces: Cover about a two-foot-square using the N pattern shown. Cross roll to spread the paint. Finish, with light roller strokes in one direction, at a right angle to the cross roll.

Painting Double-Hung Windows

For double-hung windows move each sash to the center of its track and paint the inside sash, starting with the crossbars. Then, paint the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash; you'll use it to move the sash. Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, starting with the crossbar, then the frame.
Close the sashes to within several inches of the closed position. Paint the rest of the outer sash and the top edge of the inner sash. Paint the window casing, then the sill.
Paint the check rails. Move both sashes down as far as they will go, then paint the upper rails. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, move both sashes up and paint the lower rails of the window.

Casement or Awning Windows

Open the windows and paint the top, side and bottom edges.
Finish with the crossbars, frame, casings and the sills.

Paneled Doors

First remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. If paint does get on metal parts, wipe it up immediately with a soft cloth.
Start by painting the panels, working from top to bottom. For each panel, paint panel molding first, then the interior, using up and down strokes with your brush.
Next, paint the rest of the door, finishing with the outer edges. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If the door swings in, paint the lockside edge.

Flush Doors

Paint the edges first.
Then fill in the center area, working from top to bottom.
Finish with the frame and jamb

Remove all form release and curing agents. Rough surfaces can be filled to provide a smooth surface. If painting cannot wait 30 days, allow the surface to cure 7 days and prime the surface with masonry primer.

Choosing a Primer

To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, be sure to properly apply primer to the surfaces you plan to paint.

Valspar primers are formulated to solve typical painting problems while helping to make your finish coat smooth and uniform:

Achieve a smooth, professional finish Block stains, marks and odors Assure adhesion Speed topcoating Prevent peeling Attain the truest paint color in the fewest coats Improve touch-up performance of the topcoat.

Get the long-lasting results you want with the right primer and room preparation techniques.

House Painting - Preparing

Prepparing
Surface Preparation
Surface Type Preparation Steps

Prepparing

To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, take the time to ensure that the surface to be painted is clean, dry and smooth and coated with the correct primer.
Paint Depot USA paint expert can provide additional advice about which primer is right for your project. And remember, we also carry all the tools you'll need for surface preparation - such as ladders, wire brushes, paint scrapers, putty knives, wood filler and spackling paste - to prepare a surface for painting.

Surface Preparation

Preparation. It's the key to good-looking, long-lasting results. A properly prepared surface is clean, solid and dry, without cracks and imperfections.

Surface Type Preparation Steps

Bare Wood

Fill nail holes, joints and cracks with patching paste.
Sand smooth and remove sanding dust with a tack cloth.
Prime all bare wood and patched areas with a primer.

New Plaster Walls

These must be clean and completely cured.

Textured or swirl types and soft, porous or powdery plaster must be:

Treated with a solution of one pint household vinegar in one gallon of water.

Repeat the treatment until the surface is hard.

Rinse with plain water.

Let dry and apply primer.

New Drywall

Panels must be securely nailed or glued in place. All panel joints must be taped and filled before painting. When joint cement and/or patching materials are thoroughly dry, sand smooth, wipe away dust, then prime.

Wallpaper

Always remove wallpaper before painting. Use a chemical wallpaper remover or rent a steamer, if necessary. Once the paper is removed, wash off old adhesive. Rinse with water and allow the wall to dry before priming.

Previously Painted Surfaces

Wash off dirt, grease, soap and oil buildup with the appropriate cleaner. Rinse thoroughly. Remove loose paint and powdery substances. Patch holes and cracks with spackling or patching compound. Allow to dry, then sand smooth. For glossy or nonporous surfaces, lightly sand to a dull finish or use an abrasive cleanser. Remove sanding dust or cleanser residue.

Make sure to prime all bare areas prior to applying topcoat. (Avoid "spot priming," which can result in a nonuniform appearance between primed and non-primed areas.)

Masonry, Concrete, Cement, Block

All new surfaces must be cured according to the supplier's recommendations- usually about 30 days.

Interior Paint: Choosing the Right Paint

House Paint - Planning

Choosing the Right Paint
Matching Paint to Surfaces
Selecting a Finish
Choosing the Right Brush
Choosing the Right Roller Cover
Pad Applicators

Choosing the Right Paint - Wholesale

The type of paint you'll use depends on how the room to be painted will be used and the type of finish you want. Interior paint is specifically formulated to provide:

Scrubbability and stain resistance
Good hiding ability
Good coverage
Spatter resistance
Easy touch-up

Latex or Oil? Interior house paints are either latex- or oil/alkyd-based. Today, most oil-based paints are made with synthetic resins (alkyds), which perform better than paints based on natural oils. Each has different characteristics and uses.
Latex - Get the longest-lasting finish with the best gloss retention. Valspar latex paints are easy to work with, dry quickly and are extremely durable. Latex paints clean up easily with soap and water.
Oil / Alkyd - Good adhesion, excellent durability and stain resistance make Valspar oil/alkyd-based paints excellent choices for trim in high-traffic rooms, such as kitchens and bathrooms. Clean paint tools with mineral spirits.

Matching Paint to Surfaces

Choosing the right paint for the surface will help ensure that you achieve a quality paint job that will last.

Ceilings - Use specially formulated flat ceiling paint. The flat finish hides irregularities and lap marks. Ceiling paint rolls on with minimal spatter and won't yellow over time.
Woodwork - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint. Always prime bare wood. Easy-to-clean semi-gloss finishes are first choice, but when wear-and-tear is modest, flat or satin finishes are fine selections.
Walls - Because it's easy to work with, latex paint is an excellent choice for do-it-yourself projects. Latex paints can be applied over properly primed drywall, wood or masonry.
Metal - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint on properly primed iron or steel. You can apply latex directly on aluminum and galvanized metal. However, these metals need to be properly primed if you're using oil/alkyd-based paint.
Masonry - For cement, concrete block and brick surfaces, acrylic latex wall paint designed for masonry surfaces is an excellent choice.
Floors - "Quikrete" Use a product specifically designed for floor to stand up to abrasion, traffic and heavy scrubbing.

Selecting a Finish

From flat to gloss, both latex and oil/alkyd paints offer a full range of finishes. The sheen you choose is based on the final look and wearability you want to achieve.

Flat - Its matte appearance softens a room and helps hide surface blemishes, making walls look smooth. This finish, which cleans easily with a damp sponge, is ideal for:
- Adult bedrooms
- Dining rooms
- Formal living rooms
- Ceilings
Satin - With its slight gloss, this finish offers the benefits of a flat finish with added cleanability. It works best for high-traffic areas such as:
- Halls
- Woodwork
- Children's bedrooms
- Family rooms
Semi-Gloss - This lustrous, durable finish is perfect for areas that get cleaned frequently, such as:
- Kitchens
- Bathrooms
- Utility area
- Closet doors
- Trim
Gloss - This extremely hard and shiny finish provides a rich, smooth luster and is excellent for:
- Wood trim
- Cabinets Doors
- Furniture.

Choosing the Right Brush

Paint Depot USA paint brushes come in a variety of sizes, end types and bristles. A high-quality brush can mean a better-looking job with less effort. Why? Because a good-quality brush holds more paint and applies it more evenly, which can save you time and help you get the results you want.

Types of Brushes

Natural-bristle brushes made with animal hairs are used for applying oil base paints, varnishes, shellac, polyurethane and other oil base finishes. The natural "flagging" (splitting or fuzzy tips) of these brushes creates split ends in the bristles that hold more paint and help assure a smooth paint release and finish.
Blended nylon/polyester brushes are easy to clean and work well with all types of latex paints. The combination of nylon's durability and polyester's shape retention is the mark of a high-quality brush - one that also produces a high-quality paint finish. What's more, these durable brushes are built to handle numerous projects. So, with proper care, nylon / polyester brushes should last for years.
Polyester brushes are best for latex paints. These brushes hold their shape and stiffness in any paint and apply paint smoothly and evenly.

Brush Sizes

The size you select is up to you, but a good rule of thumb is:

1" to 2" - window and other small trim
3" - glossy paints for doors and cabinets
4" - large, flat areas

Brush End Types

Chisel Trim Brush - slanted bristles produce a good, straight line for trimming in corners and edges.
Square Trim Brush - the ends of the bristles are cut square and used primarily for applying paint over flat areas.
Angled Brush - bristles are cut to make it easier to apply paint to window trim.

Brush Styles

Thin Angle Sash - slanted bristles and a thin profile produce a good, straight line for trimming in corners and edges.
Angle Sash - features slanted bristles and holds more paint than its thin counterpart. Excellent for cutting in at the ceiling or painting trim.
Flat Sash - bristles are straight across and used primarily for applying paint over flat areas.
Trim - a flat brush excellent for painting large flat surfaces, especially exterior siding.
Wall - a thick flat brush that holds a larger amount of paint. Excellent for painting larger surface areas.

Choosing the Right Roller Cover

Rollers can be used to paint large, flat surfaces in much less time than it would take using a paintbrush. Your choice of roller cover depends on the type of paint (latex or oil) and the surface you're painting (smooth, rough or textured). Roller Covers are available in multiple fabric types (synthetic, natural or blend) to match the type of paint used and in several pile depths appropriate for different surfaces.

Fabric Types

Synthetic covers (nylon, dacron or polyester) - ideal for most latex paints.
Natural covers (mohair or sheepskin) - should be used with oil-based paints. If used with latex paints, the water in the paint may swell the fibers, causing them to become matted.
Blended covers (polyester / wool blend) - combines the extra pickup of wool with polyester for longer life.Can be used with all paints.

Pile Depth

Pile depth refers to the thickness of the roller cover's fiber nap. It's essential to choose the right pile depth for the surface you're painting.

Very Smooth - for metal doors and plaster
Smooth - for drywall Semi-Smooth - for drywall
Semi-Rough - for rough wood and acoustic tile Rough- for textured ceilings and stucco finishes
Very Rough - for concrete block, brick and fences

Pad Applicators

Pad applicators are versatile enough for use inside or outside your home. These painting tools are ideal for exterior siding, concrete block, shakes, shingles and fences. They also work well on interior walls, ceilings, floors and doors.
Pad applicators are perfect for latex or oil base paints, stains, sealers or wallpaper paste. Pads produce a smooth paint finish without the spatter that rollers sometimes cause.
Paint edgers are a version of pad applicators that eliminate the need for masking. They're designed for use on ceilings, doors, windows and baseboards.

Gunning for Quality: Spray Application of Exterior Stains

One of the most common questions we are asked is, “Can you really achieve a quality exterior stain application with spray equipment?” Our answer is yes; but the contractor or the do-it-yourself consumer must make sure they do the job right. There is a great variety of spray equipment on the market today, from expensive commercial equipment to the popular “buzz gun” or cup gun. With airless spraying, the most popular spray method, the key to success is understanding the limits of the equipment and the coating to be sprayed. With correct tip sizes and pressure levels, virtually any coating in any viscosity range can be spray applied successfully.
Spray Tips
According to major equipment manufacturers, the quality of a job is most effected when worn spray tips are not replaced. Tip wear causes problems because: • When a tip wears, its orifice increases (e.g., from a 0.017” orifice to a 0.023” orifice), thereby dramatically increasing coating consumption – which nearly doubles. • More of the coating is being sprayed with each pass and there is a dramatic increase in the wet mil film build. To avoid too much film build, the person applying must then speed-up each pass. This quickly becomes impossible to do, even for the most experienced contractor. • The resulting doubling of film build can cause many potential problems, including: possible coating adhesion failure; retarding of the solvent evaporation; fisheyes; solvent popping and loss of compatibility between the substrate and coating. Tip wear can occur after 40-150 gallons of product have passed through the gun’s tip. (Of course, this is dependent on the product being sprayed. Higher viscosity latex products, with their abrasive fillers, will wear out a tip faster than a lower viscosity penetrating stain.) For high volume contractors, tip wear can result rather quickly. Knowing the telltale signs of wear is important. One such sign, known as “tailing,” is a sure indicator that the tip needs to be replaced. Normally, the spray fan pattern of a coating will be even with fine particles. With tailing, a heavier coating pattern occurs at the extreme outer edges of the normal fine spray pattern. This happens because as the tip wears, and its orifice increases, there is a pressure drop and the pump can no longer keep up with the tip size. Many times the person spraying will increase the gun pressure. This not only puts more wear on the pump, but also creates over spray as the person moves further away from the substrate. Changing tips is by far the easiest and most economical way to secure a quality job.
Application
To ensure maximum durability, each Cabot product is meticulously formulated for application either as a penetrating product or at a definite wet mil thickness. When spraying, products must not be thinned or adulterated in any way, and the required film thickness or penetration specified for each Cabot product must be achieved. (Please reference Cabot’s Technical Data Sheets for individual product specifications, recommended tip sizes, pressure levels and fan sizes.) It is also very important to back brush all Cabot products after spraying, to ensure proper penetration, uniformity of coverage and elimination of runs and sags. The following application tips may also be helpful: • Test the spray pattern on scrap lumber or cardboard sheets. Achieve uniform atomized particles – avoid large droplets that will splatter as they hit the surface and may cause orange-peel. Avoid very fine droplets that may result in dry spray and over spray. • Testing the spray pattern will assist in choosing the correct pressure for the tip. Increase the pressure gradually to fine tune the pattern and eliminate “tails” (heavy or thick edges) at the extremes of the pattern. • Control the rate of coverage with the spray tip size. Do not increase the coverage by increasing the fluid pressure of the airless sprayer – change the tip to a larger orifice. Use the lowest pressure necessary to achieve the results you want.• Hold the spray gun perpendicular to the surface being sprayed – 10-14 inches away. Start the stroke off the surface and pull the trigger as the gun is moving. Move the gun parallel to the surface at a steady rate. • While the gun is moving, release the trigger as you approach the other edge. This will avoid a heavy buildup at each end of the stroke. • Moving the spray gun at the correct speed will apply a full, wet coat without runs or sags. • Lap each stroke by approximately 50% over the previous pass for uniform paint or stain thickness. • Spray left to right, then right to left. Spray from the ground toward the roof being sure to spray the drip edges of shingles, shakes and lap siding (clapboards). • When spraying into an inside corner, aim the spray gun at the center of the corner to ensure that both sides are sprayed evenly.